Adrift Read online

  Copyright © 2015 by David T. K. Wong

  All rights reserved.

  Published in Singapore by Epigram Books.

  www.epigrambooks.sg

  National Library Board, Singapore

  Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

  Wong, David T. K., author.

  Adrift: My Childhood in Colonial Singapore / David T. K. Wong

  –Singapore: Epigram Books, 2015.

  pages cm

  ISBN: 978-981-4615-98-3 (paperback)

  ISBN: 978-981-4655-14-9 (ebook)

  1. Wong, David T. K. – Childhood and youth.

  2. Authors, English – Singapore – Biography.

  3. Singapore – History – 20th century.

  I. Title.

  PR6123

  823.92—dc23 OCN904741104

  First Edition: May 2015

  CONTENTS

  CHAPTER 1

  Explanations

  CHAPTER 2

  Historical Background

  CHAPTER 3

  My Grandparents

  CHAPTER 4

  Seeds of Displacement

  CHAPTER 5

  Awakening in Canton

  CHAPTER 6

  Blair Road

  CHAPTER 7

  Trials and Tribulations

  CHAPTER 8

  Mixed Education

  CHAPTER 9

  Tricks and Treats

  CHAPTER 10

  Drumbeats of War

  CHAPTER 11

  Refuge

  CHAPTER 12

  Shadows

  CHAPTER 1

  Explanations

  FOUR GENERATIONS AGO, some of my ancestors—for no obviously discernible reason—decided to leave various parts of Kwangtung Province in China to head for the newly established British Crown Colony of Hong Kong. Those decisions, made independently and without knowing one another, must have been quite extraordinary, for the enclave was at the time little more than a malaria-infested island, populated only by a few isolated fishing villages. It held out no promise for riches or for an agreeable future.

  Those ancestors did not fit the profiles of conventional Chinese immigrants. They were not peasants, seeking to escape from the hardships of poverty, crop failures, onerous taxation, unsustainable debts, conscription, war, banditry or localised breakdowns in law and order. Nor were they freebooters or soldiers of fortune; or even commercial chancers or budding entrepreneurs in pedestrian trades. They were for the most part sober and cautious individuals, with enough education to curb the wilder instincts for risk and adventure. Though none might be exactly living in the lap of luxury in their native places, they were by no means hard-up, jobless or leading uncongenial existences.

  My great-grandfather, for example, had been a school teacher in a village in Hsin Hui, a district once reputed to produce the sweetest oranges in the whole of China. He continued with his profession after arriving in Hong Kong. There was certainly no upward mobility for him.

  So little about him had been handed down in oral history that his very name has been forgotten by members of my generation. No one is now privy to what his private motives might have been. What could be deduced is that, although he might not have been directly affected by many of the rebellions and foreign wars in China during his lifetime, he must have felt sufficiently disheartened by the decline and humiliations of his nation to seek an alternative solution. Perhaps he had even concluded that the situation was indeed as stark as made out by various foreign predators, namely, that China was a melon, ripe for carving up and parcelling out as colonies or imperial possessions among Western powers.

  On the more personal level, he might have concluded that his own Confucian upbringing, with all its moral precepts, had been little more than a fraud that he had been passing on to his students. All the sagely observations about justice, righteousness, moderation, individual conscience and the rest, endlessly recited and reiterated, had been worthless against the acquisitive Western appetites of the nineteenth century—the pursuit of self-interest, the survival of the fittest, the scientific and technological power to re-shape the natural environment, free trade under the barrels of gunboats and, to top everything off, the renewed drive to spread an alien religion which had come and quietly faded away from his country centuries ago. The main question occupying his mind must have been how he might help his sons find accommodation with so many foreign ideas.

  The foregoing speculations offer only a plausible explanation for two decisions he subsequently took. First, he insisted that all his three sons should pursue studies in Western scientific subjects and secondly, that each of them should, after his university education, head to distant parts of the world to make his living. Those decisions, for better or for worse, altered our traditional family structure and condemned his descendants to become partially Westernised Chinese wanderers, forever rootless and homeless, roaming uneasily in far-off lands.

  My great-grandfather also had three daughters. Girls were then considered to be economic encumbrances, to be disposed of as quickly as possible. So far as anyone can determine, they had been given sufficient education and then married off. That was the last anybody in the family heard any mention of them.

  My grandfather was the youngest of those six children. Although he had been brought up in Hong Kong and had enrolled in the Hong Kong College of Medicine in 1893, his life developed in ways contrary to the expectations of my great-grandfather.

  For a start, my grandfather got himself married while still a student, to the eldest daughter among nine children of a long-established family from Tung Koon. That family, which boasted a recorded history stretching back for 26 generations, had converted to Christianity a couple of generations earlier and the father of the bride had come to Hong Kong as one of its earliest Methodist preachers. He and his wife had founded a school at Caine Road and ran it for a number of years.

  It has remained an enduring mystery as to why such an august family should have allowed its eldest daughter to marry a young student without qualifications or means of support. While it cannot be ascertained whether the Christian faith which the young man in question had professed had been sincere, my guess is that any astute observer might have detected a heretic streak in him even then.

  As the years rolled by, I was to learn that my grandfather had many intriguing and unusual aspects to his character. Unlike his elder brothers, he did not turn his back on his motherland, either politically or emotionally. Instead, he became an ardent republican during his medical studies in Hong Kong, convinced that the Manchu Dynasty had to be overthrown before his country could be made strong and united again. To that end, he surreptitiously threw in his lot with one of the burgeoning Chinese revolutionary movements.

  After graduating in 1900, he immediately moved abroad, accepting an appointment as a “Registering Medical Officer” with the British Colonial Service in Singapore. But he never forgot his patriotic and republican ideals during his stint as a colonial doctor. He spent much of his spare time preaching rebellion among overseas Chinese and raising funds from them to finance the revolutionary activities of his friend and associate, Dr Sun Yat-Sen.

  The success of the Revolution of 1911 must have disappointed him, for the old factional rivalries and perennial disease of disunity came once more to the fore once the Manchu Dynasty had fallen. Although he had spent most of the rest of his life in Singapore, where my father was born and brought up, his thoughts remained firmly focused on the recurring trials and instabilities in his motherland.

  He had another contradictory streak. Although he was an ardent revolutionary, he remained a conservative in certain social attitudes. For example, he continued to adhere to the former Ching Dynasty’s provisions for a man to acquire as many wives as he could afford—or at least as
he could put up with. According to family mythology, he acquired a total of nine wives. That could not have gone down very well with either my grandmother or with his Methodist in-laws.

  Regrettably, I had arrived on the scene too late to bear witness to the full glory of his ménage à neuf, thus leaving me hankering to know how it had all been made to work. I did arrive in time, however, for another “grandmother”—who had been installed in a different house farther along the same street I was living in—to give birth to a son for him, which also meant giving me a brand new baby uncle!

  I did not know how to take that bombshell at the time, for I had only just turned six. My grandfather did not look like a womaniser, not that I had the slightest idea how such a man should appear. He was in fact tall and wiry, with an elevated brow and a receding hairline. I remembered him as remarkably spritely for a man of 59, with dark mischievous eyes and an easy smile. His teeth were large, irregular and stained, probably through smoking too much.

  Attempts to get pointers from my grandfather and my father on how to integrate myself into such an intricate family were more difficult than present-day youngsters might imagine. Both of them were about as talkative as Trappist monks. To gain whatever snippets of enlightenment I could, I took to inferring what I could from their actions and keeping my ears open to the conversations between adults. But sometimes I could only half-divine what they were up to and at other times I got hold of the completely wrong end of the stick.

  The backgrounds to my forebears on the maternal side of the family were much less complicated. My mother’s father had been the son of the proprietor of a village provision store in Tseng Sing. He was brought up in the classical Chinese tradition until the age of 15. Over the centuries, Confucian ideas had been heavily influenced by Buddhist ones and he no doubt absorbed some of those too. According to the Buddhists, the world had already entered a prolonged Dhamma-Ending Age, during which human conditions could only get progressively worse. The increasingly chaotic situation in China must have given some credence to that view. So when a relative suggested that my maternal grandfather should go to Hong Kong to broaden his horizons, he moved there in 1881 and enrolled at the St Paul’s Secondary School.

  The school’s system for Christian instruction must have been very effective, for my maternal grandfather quickly realised that, contrary to the long drawn-out trials and miseries foretold in Buddhist scriptures, the imminence of the Christian Second Coming held out the possibility of a short cut to another form of Nirvana. By the time he graduated, he appeared to have made up his mind to convert to Christianity. He proceeded to deepen his understanding of Christianity by undertaking theological studies and volunteering to become a lay preacher.

  During that period, he met a woman from Chung Shan who had come to Hong Kong to take up a teaching post at a girls’ school. He discovered that she shared his religious enthusiasm and his passion for evangelical work. He courted and married her and they produced a total of eight children, the fourth of whom was my mother.

  He was ordained as a priest in 1902, in the immediate aftermath of the Boxer Rebellion and the indiscriminate slaughtering carried out by all sides. He was quickly sent back to Canton to start a new ministry. He founded the Church of Our Saviour at No. 184 Wanfu Road, which is still in use today. He then set about establishing schools, clinics and shelters for hunger-pinched refugees.

  His unstinting charitable endeavours caused him to rise steadily through the Anglican hierarchy. His devotion to his work was such that he required all his children, once in gainful employment, to contribute a part of their earnings to the church.

  I never got to know my maternal grandparents very well, for I spent only about a year and a half with them in Canton when I was a child. I remember my grandfather as a diminutive man with a pair of grave bespectacled eyes and a firm, fervent voice. His sermons seemed earnest and workmanlike rather than flamboyant and crowd-drawing. The only impression I have of my grandmother is of a small desiccated woman with a wrinkled face and a pair of work-worn hands.

  While my memories of them are faint, what I can vividly recall are the stories they used to tell me from the Bible and their efforts to convince me that Christianity was the genuine article. Though I was not aware of it at the time, they had me baptised in Hong Kong after birth, so convinced were they that I carried part of Adam’s original sin. If left unbaptised, they believed that my soul ran every risk of heading straight for hell.

  One consistent trait I noticed among the elders on both sides of my family was their reluctance to explain their inner thoughts and motivations, particularly to children. None attempted to write a memoir. I drew the conclusion that it must be considered bad form to gab about oneself or one’s private affairs. I accordingly developed a laconic disposition myself, keeping such secrets and puzzles I had bottled up inside.

  In reality, apart from the women I had loved and managed to lose, I had few secrets really worth keeping. I had been more of a rolling stone than most, but my life has been little different from that of the legions of Mr Joe Everymans inhabiting our world. Divorced parents, childhood insecurities, adolescent angst, jobs not particularly to one’s own choosing, one or more busted marriages, bungled attempts at single parenthood, chronic shortages of money, and a lengthy catalogue of missteps, misjudgements and missed opportunities. Through all of that, I had never been able to settle upon a true profession. I merely tried my hand as a Jack of several trades and ended up without distinction in any of them. Silence, therefore, seems the better part of discretion.

  A reader who has been following my narrative up to this point must be scratching his head. What is this man up to? He has made clear his own and his family’s inclination towards privacy, yet he presents the first volume of what promises to be a very lengthy work. Though the first volume might be described as dealing essentially with a Singapore boyhood, with all the evocations of simpler and more halcyon times, why does he now want to disclose the antics of his ancestors and himself? Is he now prepared to parade a string of neuroses, paranoia and repressions, like a patient lying on a headshrinker’s couch? Is he trying to cash in on the rage for saucy scandals and human perversions filling tabloid newspapers and reality television shows?

  I fear I must disappoint the reader in such expectations. I am as committed to personal privacy as ever. Besides, many secrets are not mine to tell. All I can promise is that on those matters I am prepared to recount, I will do so with as much frankness and fidelity as my memory can muster. Writing this account at all has been a pure accident, brought about by a long chain of events late in life. If the reader will bear with me, I shall explain how it came about.

  The chain of events began in Hong Kong, so I shall take the liberty of touching a little upon that place, though not necessarily in strict chronological sequence. I was born there, when it was a sleepy little town, and had returned there years later to work for 35 years—five as a journalist, two as a school teacher, 20 as a senior civil servant and eight as the managing director of an international company trading in mass consumer products.

  I shall deal much more fully with the administration of colonial Hong Kong in a subsequent volume. But it was a fascinating and magical city during the decades I was there immediately after the Second World War. The subterranean tensions crackled intermittently throughout that modest little enclave, with the tiny British ruling elite effectively cut off by race, language, culture and habits of thought from its hordes of Chinese subjects. Those being ruled were divided among themselves also, through politics, class, provincial loyalties and resentful displacements. Though the mixture was volatile, compromises were somehow arrived at out of the sheer necessity of mutual survival. Very few really understood how things sometimes worked out. In any case, a modus vivendi somehow managed to emerge in fits and starts.

  Today, that former city of living on raw nerves is no more. Its structures and buildings might remain but its thrusting and venturesome spirit has started to fade long b
efore the Union Jack was lowered over the colony for the last time. The reason is because many of the main actors in that old drama, those who had the verve and instinct for exploring the unorthodox, had begun slipping away. What stands there today is but a superficially richer, cockier, more materially endowed but less tolerant city, one spiritually and sentimentally a mere mimic of its former self.

  There is no doubt that tales, books, films, myths and legends dealing with that bygone era can be found aplenty. Many are amusing in their own way. But my impression is that those who had purveyed such stories had generally seized upon only one or two aspects of much larger truths and had extrapolated those elements to explain an inexplicable whole.

  Take for example the case of the British Prime Minister, Mrs Margaret Thatcher. Her own predilections had caused her to swallow the official propaganda that Hong Kong’s economic success had been due to the gutsy operation of a free market system under sound British administration. Therefore she tried to negotiate on that basis the termination of the 99-year lease on the New Territories with the Chinese. She offered to return the whole of the colony to Chinese sovereignty in return for 50 more years of superior British administration. The Chinese leadership, not surprisingly, gave her a flea in the ear.

  Likewise, when expatriate businessmen waited for membership to one of the racially segregated Hong Kong clubs, they would be in total ignorance of the anticipations of yellow men on the verge of moving up to be White Paper Fans or Straw Sandals in Chinese triad societies. And vice versa. For what does each know of the other? Myths had to be invented. Yet each group was in its own way an essential counterpoint in the complex workings of the colony.

  To illustrate how the place has changed since, perhaps I can recount a recent story. In an election for a Chief Executive under Hong Kong’s new Chinese constitution, investigative reporters unearthed the embarrassing fact that both candidates had made illegal extensions at their homes. In order to explain away the awkward situation, one candidate stated with uncommon gallantry that his wife was responsible for the lapse. He did not win the election.